The max attack and defense you can put on a card is 9999 each. You could also put in the "infinity sign." There are no requirements, but you do must look into other real cards to see what counts as being "Balanced". For instance, making a level 4 monster with 9999 ATK is probably the worse, unbalanced thing you can do.
Let me elaborate on an example. Let's say you want a monster who every time it destroys a monster, it discards a card from your opponent's hand. Let's make this balanced now. If you want a level 4 or lower monster, it'll probably have much lower attack, 1500 and no more. And it must destroy a monster by battle and send it to the Graveyard. If you want a level 6 or 5 monster, make it a 2000 ATK or lower. The latter follows. If you desire to add more beneficial effects, you must also counter this with effects or stats that would be a requirement to be met. If you need anymore additional help, please check out the Sticky I posted in this forum.
(P.S You'd either make the attack of the monster 0, have a number higher than 0, or make it a "?". Then state that for this card gains 500 ATK or the likes for each face-up LIGHT monster you control/on the field,
-TK
Tyrantking10
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#3916381 help with make cards: will give rep
Posted by Tyrantking10
on 26 March 2010 - 01:16 PM
#1873757 >>>>>READ ME FIRST!: Common Questions and Answers here!!! <<<<<
Posted by Tyrantking10
on 16 March 2009 - 07:30 PM
Cards.)
Question #1: What is the Card Maker?
Answer: The Card Maker is designed to make custom cards of your very own! You can do this by following the steps in order to make a card you desire.
Name: This is what your card is going to be named. Make sure it is relevant to what you desire it to represent of your card. Make sure it is not too long, otherwise it will get cramped and can be very messy. Your name, starting with the number/alphabet, will also reflect in what position it will get when saved. The list to the right of the Delete and Open is your "Unsorted List." We will touch on that in a bit.
Type: What type of card is it? The list drops down each type of monster, as well as Spell and Trap cards. Afterwards, you need to make sure what class its in. Is it a Normal Monster Card? Or is it a Continuous Trap Card? If you entered in monster, the Trap/Spell type will be disabled, and if you entered in Spell/Trap, the Monster Type list will be disabled.
Attribute: If you selected a monster, this will reflect on the element this monster is. For say, if you have a monster who composed of rocks, it is very likely that the monster's Attribute is EARTH.
Level: This is also monster unique. Level is the amount of balled, orange stars that will appear under the monster's name, and above its picture. Depending on how powerful your monster is will reflect its stars. If you have a pathetically weak monster with or without a decent effect, it's likely to be 1-3 stars. If you have a balanced monster (Balanced between ATK and DEF) with or without an effect, it's likely to be 3-4. A stronger monster however, or one with a much better effect, will result in it being 5-6. Remember that 5-6 Leveled monsters need 1 Tribute, 7-8 need 2 Tributes, and anything above requires 3. Make sure you analyze your card carefully in order to appropriately Level your monster.
Card Rarity: Card rarity changes the look on cards, and how hard/how powerful it is. Commons either balance the amount of rares or there are more of them, and will represent a wide range of usefulness. Rares, which will turn the name into a silver like color, represents the most basic of the rares. These can have a little edge to their use, but not by much. Super rares make the picture holographic (Card Maker does no make pictures shiny, but still does the name). They get an even more of an edge, and gives it a good look at. Ultra rares are some of the harder ones to come across, being golden in name and holographic. Ultra Rares are either generally good or focused good. General means that the card is versatile and does not follow a set. Focused means that your card is solely for a specific purpose and/or better performed with a Focused Deck. Secret Rares are the hardest, and probably the strongest form of card. Coming in various forms, such as diagonal holographic name and picture to crossed holographic in pictures. It is also advised that there should be few of these, and for a good reason too. Make these the staples of your Set/presentation and/or show your true Card Making skills in them!
Picture URL: To upload your picture, first save the picture into a designated place on your computer so you remember where it is. Then click the upload button, and up comes a little window, with Browse and Upload. Click the Browse button, and up should come your Documents/Pictures/Etc. Go to the file/document that you saved your picture, and double-click your pic. It will take awhile, but you'll see a code bar now in the empty bar. Now click upload. The little window will disappear. To see if it worked, theres a big button near the bottom of the page called Generate. It will upload all current data you put into the card. If your picture is now in the blanked card, you did it!
Circulation: This is the status of the card. 2nd Edition cards do not need anything in this, and you can also leave it blank for various reasons relating to it. You can put in 1st Edition to label your cards more "Pack Realistic" or label it as LIMITED to show that it's a card released promotionally.
Set ID: Each card needs a Set ID. A Set ID is to realistically label what Pack/Set it came from, and what number card it is. For let's say for an example, if I was making a set called Space Chronicles, I will take the first letter in Space, the C in space for the closest consenent for SC. Then i will take the first letter in Chronicles, and since I already used C (This is up to you), I will choose N as my middle consenent. I now have my first complete Set ID, SPCN. Now i need to know what number card this is in SPCN. If this is your very first card, you can either do 001, or 000, depending if you want to follow the old fasioned way (000 is old). You can make amount of cards you want in it, just make sure you follow the 000, 001, 002, 003, etc clause. Also, this is important! Make sure you put EN in front of the numbers to label which translation this card game out under. I know, kind of useless if you can just look at it, but in fact many people rate cards in how realistic it is, including the finishing details. So, let's say it's going to be the fifth card in Space Chronicles. I will put it as SPCN in the first box to the left, and the box on the right with EN005.
Type: This is monster unique. This will be disabled if you are making a Spell or Trap card. The type of monster is pretty much it's race/occupation. Say, if your monster more or less looks human with a big sword, it's likely to be warrior. Or if you have the mighty Tyrannosaurus as a picture, it's most applicable to be a Dinosaur Type. These are the original types as followed.
Aqua / Beast / Beast-Warrior / Dinosaur / Dragon / Fairy / Fiend / Fish / Insect / Machine / Plant / Pychic / Pyro / Reptile / Rock / Sea Serpent / Spellcaster / Thunder / Warrior / Winged Beast / Zombie.
You can make your own type, but make sure it's not too over the top or too focused.
Description: Here is where you get to show what your card exactly does and importantly its use. Normal Monsters will have whats called "Flavor Text" meaning you can make a brief summary of the charateristics of that monster, what it does, where its at, etc. But don't get confused with EFFECTS. Effects are what the card actually does. Now, this one might be long to explain, but you have to know what you want to do, and you have to do it right. OCG (Original Card Grammar) is the proper form in which you should put your card.
It is unwise to go unprepared when making these very important effects for cards. It is not good if you put something like "This guy can do 5000 damage if he sees pancakes in duel also he can't be killed!!" or "any cat monster on field instantly get hairball and die." No, please don't do that.
It is also unwise to be lazy/uncreative, and even rule breaking if you steal another's idea. So, do not make another Exiled Force, or steal.
One other thing is that YOU HAVE TO MAKE IT BALANCED. An un-balanced card is one with unfair advantages that (far) outweight the cons (or any cons). In order to make it balanced, place a cost for the effect/make it usuable once instead of everytime/make it harder to use. If your using a monster, making it a higher level will require tribute(s), etc.
OCG.) The biggest concern for people is the OCG, which will be explained a bit later.
ATK/DEF: Monster unique. ATK means Attack, and DEF means Defence. The Attack is the offensive power of the monster, mostly important than that of DEF. DEF is the defensive power of the monster, which can stall out lower or equal ATK. It is important to know what is balanced, between a low stat monster, a decent/even stat monster, a high ATK or DEF and low ATK or DEF monster, or a high stat monster with or without a cost.
Creator: The person who made the card. Generally for pure realistic cards, you'll put down the person who made Yugioh in the first place. But here, it doesn't matter too much if you put in your name or Username.
Year: The date in which YOU started creating cards. You can either put that date, the date in which the card was made in, or the original date for realism.
Serial Number: Each card has a unique serial number. You can make your own, by putting in a random assortment of numbers 0-9, 8 digits. If you choose, you can save time and click on random for it to generate 8 digits for you. When making uniques however, do not INTENTIONALLY make cards with the same serial numbers.
Generate: Generate is pretty much the lift off key for your card. This will download all the data you put in into the blank card to the right of all your data. If everything looks great, go ahead and advance to the Save button.
Save: Does exactly that, it saves your card into your list.
Save to: The Save to is an optional choice to organize your cards into what your Set ID began with. This makes it much easier for bigger makers (such as I) to find cards faster and to re-do them if needed. If you do, the first drop list to the left of the Delete and Open button is to your Sets, and the right one is to the cards within that set.
Delete: Every card has its days. Open the card you wish to delete, and click Delete, it will ask you are you sure. If you are, continue on.
Open: Opens the card's data and preview in which you have selected on the list. This is mostly used for editing.
That's about it for the Card Maker!
Question #2: How do I get my completed cards into a post?
Answer: There are many ways you can go and do about this. One, which is convient, is on the Card Maker itself. Open the card you wish to upload, and then click on the preview picture. A little bar under the card says "Uploading picture to Imageshack" Wait a little bit, and you should now see a bar with your picture code in it. Highlight it all, and COPY it. Go to your post, and in your reply, PASTE it on, and it should be done like that!
Question #3:How can my OCG improve?
Answer: This might be the most difficult for anyone to achieve correctly, more so for the first time. OCG is checked and is looked at most importantly around YCM, and is advised to be worked on before you feel that it's good. There may be a flaw or two, but getting very good at it and catching your mistakes is awarding enough. There are things such as Old OCG and new OCG. Old OCG stretches to when adding a card from your Deck to your hand said "Move a card from so and so to so and so." The new one, reflecting off of Reinforcements of the Army says "Add 1 Level 4 or lower Warrior-Type Monster from your Deck to your hand." Now analyze that sentence quite carefully, even captilization is important to consider. The new OCG is pretty much the neater, the simplier, and easy to understand way to put your effects.
I will state multiple effects from different cards, and see if you can catch on to how they pronouce their effects, what is and what isn't capitilized, what comes first, what resolves first, how/when/where the effect takes place and what special clauses affect it.
Gorz the Emissary of Darkness:
When you take damage from a card your opponent controls while you control no cards, you can Special Summon this card from your hand. Then activate the appropriate effect, based on the type of damage: ● Battle Damage: Special Summon 1 "Emissary of Darkness Token" (Fairy-Type/LIGHT/Level 7/ATK ?/DEF ?). Its ATK and DEF are each equal to the amount of battle damage you took. ● Effect Damage: Inflict damage to your opponent equal to the damage you took.
Pot of Avarice:
Select 5 Monster Cards in your Graveyard. Return those cards to the Deck, then draw 2 cards.
Shrink:
Select 1 face-up monster on the field. The original ATK of that monster is halved until the end of this turn.
Equip Shot:
Activate only during the Battle Phase. Select 1 Equip Card equipped to a face-up Attack Position monster you control, and select 1 face-up Attack Position monster your opponent controls. Equip that monster with the selected Equip Card. Then, conduct battle between your previously equipped monster and the selected monster (Other effects cannot be activated during this battle).
Injection Fairy Lily:
This card's effect can be activated only during the Damage Step of either player's turn. Pay 2000 Life Points to increase the ATK of this monster by 3000 points only during the Damage Step.
Solemn Judgment:
Pay half of your Life Points. Negate an activation of a Spell / Trap Card / Normal Summon / Flip Summon / Special Summon and destroy the Spell Card, Trap Card, or Summoned monster.
There are guides that people have made that can further attend to your OCG needs should you need it. Those effects are some of the universal ones that people seem to have problems putting it correctly, and I listed as an example should you need it if your card relates to that affect in the smallest or in a large way.
http://forum.yugiohc...read-51154.html GO TO THIS LINK FOR AN OCG GUIDE
Question #4:Where can I find more original pictures?
Answer: This is, more or less YOUR homework to do. Where is the fun, the art, and the challenge on using other people's art when even that is considered art stealing? (On intention though, but when the picture has been used many times, it becomes the status of "Overused." Try to be very creative with a picture that no one has
).
I can list sources to find some starting pictures, but mostly everyone else knows.
Google Images: This is what I very first used
. Not reliant and not very diverse, but hey if you find something use it.
Photobucket: Sort of hard to look for specific images, but has a great amount of diversity, although it has already been submitted if it is on PB, right?
Deviart: Very reliable, with many styles of art. Yet again though, it is a well known site and you may come across some pictures you may have seen on here.
The rest are on your own. Good luck, and be who you are
((Credits to Bloodrun for providing the OCG guide and DJ Osiris for making it, thanks guys))
CARDS.) WILL BE CONTINUED ON THE NEXT POST FOR SPACING.
Question #1: What is the Card Maker?
Answer: The Card Maker is designed to make custom cards of your very own! You can do this by following the steps in order to make a card you desire.
Name: This is what your card is going to be named. Make sure it is relevant to what you desire it to represent of your card. Make sure it is not too long, otherwise it will get cramped and can be very messy. Your name, starting with the number/alphabet, will also reflect in what position it will get when saved. The list to the right of the Delete and Open is your "Unsorted List." We will touch on that in a bit.
Type: What type of card is it? The list drops down each type of monster, as well as Spell and Trap cards. Afterwards, you need to make sure what class its in. Is it a Normal Monster Card? Or is it a Continuous Trap Card? If you entered in monster, the Trap/Spell type will be disabled, and if you entered in Spell/Trap, the Monster Type list will be disabled.
Attribute: If you selected a monster, this will reflect on the element this monster is. For say, if you have a monster who composed of rocks, it is very likely that the monster's Attribute is EARTH.
Level: This is also monster unique. Level is the amount of balled, orange stars that will appear under the monster's name, and above its picture. Depending on how powerful your monster is will reflect its stars. If you have a pathetically weak monster with or without a decent effect, it's likely to be 1-3 stars. If you have a balanced monster (Balanced between ATK and DEF) with or without an effect, it's likely to be 3-4. A stronger monster however, or one with a much better effect, will result in it being 5-6. Remember that 5-6 Leveled monsters need 1 Tribute, 7-8 need 2 Tributes, and anything above requires 3. Make sure you analyze your card carefully in order to appropriately Level your monster.
Card Rarity: Card rarity changes the look on cards, and how hard/how powerful it is. Commons either balance the amount of rares or there are more of them, and will represent a wide range of usefulness. Rares, which will turn the name into a silver like color, represents the most basic of the rares. These can have a little edge to their use, but not by much. Super rares make the picture holographic (Card Maker does no make pictures shiny, but still does the name). They get an even more of an edge, and gives it a good look at. Ultra rares are some of the harder ones to come across, being golden in name and holographic. Ultra Rares are either generally good or focused good. General means that the card is versatile and does not follow a set. Focused means that your card is solely for a specific purpose and/or better performed with a Focused Deck. Secret Rares are the hardest, and probably the strongest form of card. Coming in various forms, such as diagonal holographic name and picture to crossed holographic in pictures. It is also advised that there should be few of these, and for a good reason too. Make these the staples of your Set/presentation and/or show your true Card Making skills in them!
Picture URL: To upload your picture, first save the picture into a designated place on your computer so you remember where it is. Then click the upload button, and up comes a little window, with Browse and Upload. Click the Browse button, and up should come your Documents/Pictures/Etc. Go to the file/document that you saved your picture, and double-click your pic. It will take awhile, but you'll see a code bar now in the empty bar. Now click upload. The little window will disappear. To see if it worked, theres a big button near the bottom of the page called Generate. It will upload all current data you put into the card. If your picture is now in the blanked card, you did it!
Circulation: This is the status of the card. 2nd Edition cards do not need anything in this, and you can also leave it blank for various reasons relating to it. You can put in 1st Edition to label your cards more "Pack Realistic" or label it as LIMITED to show that it's a card released promotionally.
Set ID: Each card needs a Set ID. A Set ID is to realistically label what Pack/Set it came from, and what number card it is. For let's say for an example, if I was making a set called Space Chronicles, I will take the first letter in Space, the C in space for the closest consenent for SC. Then i will take the first letter in Chronicles, and since I already used C (This is up to you), I will choose N as my middle consenent. I now have my first complete Set ID, SPCN. Now i need to know what number card this is in SPCN. If this is your very first card, you can either do 001, or 000, depending if you want to follow the old fasioned way (000 is old). You can make amount of cards you want in it, just make sure you follow the 000, 001, 002, 003, etc clause. Also, this is important! Make sure you put EN in front of the numbers to label which translation this card game out under. I know, kind of useless if you can just look at it, but in fact many people rate cards in how realistic it is, including the finishing details. So, let's say it's going to be the fifth card in Space Chronicles. I will put it as SPCN in the first box to the left, and the box on the right with EN005.
Type: This is monster unique. This will be disabled if you are making a Spell or Trap card. The type of monster is pretty much it's race/occupation. Say, if your monster more or less looks human with a big sword, it's likely to be warrior. Or if you have the mighty Tyrannosaurus as a picture, it's most applicable to be a Dinosaur Type. These are the original types as followed.
Aqua / Beast / Beast-Warrior / Dinosaur / Dragon / Fairy / Fiend / Fish / Insect / Machine / Plant / Pychic / Pyro / Reptile / Rock / Sea Serpent / Spellcaster / Thunder / Warrior / Winged Beast / Zombie.
You can make your own type, but make sure it's not too over the top or too focused.
Description: Here is where you get to show what your card exactly does and importantly its use. Normal Monsters will have whats called "Flavor Text" meaning you can make a brief summary of the charateristics of that monster, what it does, where its at, etc. But don't get confused with EFFECTS. Effects are what the card actually does. Now, this one might be long to explain, but you have to know what you want to do, and you have to do it right. OCG (Original Card Grammar) is the proper form in which you should put your card.
It is unwise to go unprepared when making these very important effects for cards. It is not good if you put something like "This guy can do 5000 damage if he sees pancakes in duel also he can't be killed!!" or "any cat monster on field instantly get hairball and die." No, please don't do that.
It is also unwise to be lazy/uncreative, and even rule breaking if you steal another's idea. So, do not make another Exiled Force, or steal.
One other thing is that YOU HAVE TO MAKE IT BALANCED. An un-balanced card is one with unfair advantages that (far) outweight the cons (or any cons). In order to make it balanced, place a cost for the effect/make it usuable once instead of everytime/make it harder to use. If your using a monster, making it a higher level will require tribute(s), etc.
OCG.) The biggest concern for people is the OCG, which will be explained a bit later.
ATK/DEF: Monster unique. ATK means Attack, and DEF means Defence. The Attack is the offensive power of the monster, mostly important than that of DEF. DEF is the defensive power of the monster, which can stall out lower or equal ATK. It is important to know what is balanced, between a low stat monster, a decent/even stat monster, a high ATK or DEF and low ATK or DEF monster, or a high stat monster with or without a cost.
Creator: The person who made the card. Generally for pure realistic cards, you'll put down the person who made Yugioh in the first place. But here, it doesn't matter too much if you put in your name or Username.
Year: The date in which YOU started creating cards. You can either put that date, the date in which the card was made in, or the original date for realism.
Serial Number: Each card has a unique serial number. You can make your own, by putting in a random assortment of numbers 0-9, 8 digits. If you choose, you can save time and click on random for it to generate 8 digits for you. When making uniques however, do not INTENTIONALLY make cards with the same serial numbers.
Generate: Generate is pretty much the lift off key for your card. This will download all the data you put in into the blank card to the right of all your data. If everything looks great, go ahead and advance to the Save button.
Save: Does exactly that, it saves your card into your list.
Save to: The Save to is an optional choice to organize your cards into what your Set ID began with. This makes it much easier for bigger makers (such as I) to find cards faster and to re-do them if needed. If you do, the first drop list to the left of the Delete and Open button is to your Sets, and the right one is to the cards within that set.
Delete: Every card has its days. Open the card you wish to delete, and click Delete, it will ask you are you sure. If you are, continue on.
Open: Opens the card's data and preview in which you have selected on the list. This is mostly used for editing.
That's about it for the Card Maker!
Question #2: How do I get my completed cards into a post?
Answer: There are many ways you can go and do about this. One, which is convient, is on the Card Maker itself. Open the card you wish to upload, and then click on the preview picture. A little bar under the card says "Uploading picture to Imageshack" Wait a little bit, and you should now see a bar with your picture code in it. Highlight it all, and COPY it. Go to your post, and in your reply, PASTE it on, and it should be done like that!
Question #3:How can my OCG improve?
Answer: This might be the most difficult for anyone to achieve correctly, more so for the first time. OCG is checked and is looked at most importantly around YCM, and is advised to be worked on before you feel that it's good. There may be a flaw or two, but getting very good at it and catching your mistakes is awarding enough. There are things such as Old OCG and new OCG. Old OCG stretches to when adding a card from your Deck to your hand said "Move a card from so and so to so and so." The new one, reflecting off of Reinforcements of the Army says "Add 1 Level 4 or lower Warrior-Type Monster from your Deck to your hand." Now analyze that sentence quite carefully, even captilization is important to consider. The new OCG is pretty much the neater, the simplier, and easy to understand way to put your effects.
I will state multiple effects from different cards, and see if you can catch on to how they pronouce their effects, what is and what isn't capitilized, what comes first, what resolves first, how/when/where the effect takes place and what special clauses affect it.
Gorz the Emissary of Darkness:
When you take damage from a card your opponent controls while you control no cards, you can Special Summon this card from your hand. Then activate the appropriate effect, based on the type of damage: ● Battle Damage: Special Summon 1 "Emissary of Darkness Token" (Fairy-Type/LIGHT/Level 7/ATK ?/DEF ?). Its ATK and DEF are each equal to the amount of battle damage you took. ● Effect Damage: Inflict damage to your opponent equal to the damage you took.
Pot of Avarice:
Select 5 Monster Cards in your Graveyard. Return those cards to the Deck, then draw 2 cards.
Shrink:
Select 1 face-up monster on the field. The original ATK of that monster is halved until the end of this turn.
Equip Shot:
Activate only during the Battle Phase. Select 1 Equip Card equipped to a face-up Attack Position monster you control, and select 1 face-up Attack Position monster your opponent controls. Equip that monster with the selected Equip Card. Then, conduct battle between your previously equipped monster and the selected monster (Other effects cannot be activated during this battle).
Injection Fairy Lily:
This card's effect can be activated only during the Damage Step of either player's turn. Pay 2000 Life Points to increase the ATK of this monster by 3000 points only during the Damage Step.
Solemn Judgment:
Pay half of your Life Points. Negate an activation of a Spell / Trap Card / Normal Summon / Flip Summon / Special Summon and destroy the Spell Card, Trap Card, or Summoned monster.
There are guides that people have made that can further attend to your OCG needs should you need it. Those effects are some of the universal ones that people seem to have problems putting it correctly, and I listed as an example should you need it if your card relates to that affect in the smallest or in a large way.
http://forum.yugiohc...read-51154.html GO TO THIS LINK FOR AN OCG GUIDE
Question #4:Where can I find more original pictures?
Answer: This is, more or less YOUR homework to do. Where is the fun, the art, and the challenge on using other people's art when even that is considered art stealing? (On intention though, but when the picture has been used many times, it becomes the status of "Overused." Try to be very creative with a picture that no one has
I can list sources to find some starting pictures, but mostly everyone else knows.
Google Images: This is what I very first used
Photobucket: Sort of hard to look for specific images, but has a great amount of diversity, although it has already been submitted if it is on PB, right?
Deviart: Very reliable, with many styles of art. Yet again though, it is a well known site and you may come across some pictures you may have seen on here.
The rest are on your own. Good luck, and be who you are
((Credits to Bloodrun for providing the OCG guide and DJ Osiris for making it, thanks guys))
CARDS.) WILL BE CONTINUED ON THE NEXT POST FOR SPACING.
#1873021 >>>>>READ ME FIRST!: Common Questions and Answers here!!! <<<<<
Posted by Tyrantking10
on 16 March 2009 - 05:13 PM
Hello, and welcome to the Questions and Help forums. Here, I will provide many Questions, Tips, Do-and-Don'ts, and Answers to common to rather complicated concerns you may have. Each page, starting with this one being the first, will revolve around a common subject, which will be labeled as Chapters. Cards, Forum, Membership, Discussions, and Rules will have their own chapters. As time continues, there will be more Questions and Answers in each growing Chapter, and I STRONGLY advise people to offer their assistance in expanding this so each and everyone can contribute to new members or members who want a question answered.
Now before I begin with the Card Chapter, I would like to inform you that most Q&A in here are related to one another, such as one Question will list How do I post Cards, for example, will be stated roughly the same way but in a different concept in another chapter also relating to that concern. Also, if anyone would like to correct me/submit their own Q&A, please PM me, and if detailed and a rising or existing problem, then I will add it in the Chapter(s) with credits to you.
(Posts will count as pages, the Q&A Chapters won't reach the full length of pages right now, but we will get there
)
Cards: Post 1) Here, we will discuss problems that keep occurring whilst making cards. Whether it be a strange glitch, not sure if the card is good enough, or just a general idea behind the whole thing.
Forum: Post 2) The Forum Chapter will explain where to post your topics, what is and what isn't appropriate, advice on increasing public views, and even help the new guys feel welcome.
Rules: Post 3) To make sure no one gets in trouble, to perform effective reports, and to have the best time at YCM, it is always good to know that these Rules Q&A are here for you.
Now before I begin with the Card Chapter, I would like to inform you that most Q&A in here are related to one another, such as one Question will list How do I post Cards, for example, will be stated roughly the same way but in a different concept in another chapter also relating to that concern. Also, if anyone would like to correct me/submit their own Q&A, please PM me, and if detailed and a rising or existing problem, then I will add it in the Chapter(s) with credits to you.
(Posts will count as pages, the Q&A Chapters won't reach the full length of pages right now, but we will get there
Cards: Post 1) Here, we will discuss problems that keep occurring whilst making cards. Whether it be a strange glitch, not sure if the card is good enough, or just a general idea behind the whole thing.
Forum: Post 2) The Forum Chapter will explain where to post your topics, what is and what isn't appropriate, advice on increasing public views, and even help the new guys feel welcome.
Rules: Post 3) To make sure no one gets in trouble, to perform effective reports, and to have the best time at YCM, it is always good to know that these Rules Q&A are here for you.
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